Eating a Hamburger
In December 1978, the reform and opening-up policy was implemented. The state designated several coastal cities as key economic development zones. By 1988, Zhushi had undergone earth-shaking changes.
Cars shuttled through the streets, high-rises emerged in the city, and there were department stores they had never even seen before. Fashionably dressed men and women carried small leather bags, held mobile phones in their hands, and wore pagers clipped to their belts.
Bright, large glass windows, a sign hanging above the entrance, a white-haired, bespectacled foreign grandfather with a beard, and bright red letters—this was a foreign restaurant. A line formed at the door, with adults holding children’s hands. A child said they wanted to eat a hamburger.
What was this? They had never even heard of it.
Song Hao and Cheng Jin Nian felt as if they had stumbled into a new world.
The two children stared wide-eyed, but they didn’t forget why they had come. Song Hao went to ask for directions, inquired about the address, and memorized it. Almost without thinking, he asked the mother, “How much is this hamburger?”
Eighteen yuan each.
Song Hao was shocked—so expensive.
A train ticket from Baoping City to Zhushi cost only twenty-eight yuan per person, with students paying half price. Niannian had spent fourteen yuan. Yet here, some kind of hamburger cost eighteen yuan.
Cheng Jin Nian tugged at Da Song’s sleeve and said, “I’m not hungry, I won’t eat.”
Song Hao looked back at Niannian, calculating the money left in his pocket. After deducting the return train fare, he still had fifty-six yuan to spare. Buying Niannian a hamburger would leave thirty-eight yuan—enough.
He had already asked about the bus fare—fifty cents.
“Since we’re already here, and we’ve come all this way, I heard this auntie say there are only two foreign restaurants in the whole country, and the other one is in the capital,” Song Hao said.
Cheng Jin Nian replied, “I heard the sister say that too.”
The enthusiastic older sister nearby was delighted to hear the student call her “sister” and happily taught the two children how to order.
That was the first time Cheng Jin Nian ever ate a hamburger.
A spicy chicken burger, eighteen yuan each. He and Da Song sat in the bright, clean, and utterly unfamiliar restaurant, taking turns, sharing one burger between them until it was gone.
“This foreign bun is really different from the ones in our village,” Song Hao thought it was pretty good, not a waste of money.
After eating half a hamburger, Cheng Jin Nian didn’t know why, but the anxiety in his heart disappeared, and he was no longer afraid.
There was nothing to be afraid of.
Da Song didn’t have much money to buy him a hamburger, but at worst, he could drop out of school and find work in the city later. If he worked hard, he wouldn’t starve to death.
Later, following the address and asking for directions, they found the Cheng family without much trouble.
The Cheng family wasn’t hard to find—it was in a good location, a two-story house with a small courtyard in a narrow alley. Someone came to ask who they were. Cheng Jin Nian stared steadily at the person and said, “My mother is Du Hongxia. My name is Cheng Jin Nian.”
The person’s face changed dramatically, looking nervous and frightened, glancing anxiously upstairs and then back at him. Several times, they opened their mouth to say “I don’t know you,” but as if afraid he would cause a scene and be overheard, they changed their tone and said, “Come inside first.”
At that moment, Cheng Jin Nian knew—his mother was dead, his father was “dead” too, and he had no family left.
A warmth spread over his hand.
Cheng Jin Nian looked down to see a hand tightly gripping his—it was Da Song’s hand.
Song Hao lowered his head and whispered, “Niannian, don’t worry. I’m here. If she dares to bully you, I won’t care about losing face. I’ll make sure everyone knows.”
The two entered the house, where the person questioned them about everything.
“My mother is dead. She died of illness. I’ve come to see Cheng Haijun,” Cheng Jin Nian said.
The other person was taken aback for a moment, then frowned and said, “Child, didn’t your mother teach you how to address people? How can you call your father by his name?”
Song Hao angrily retorted, “Niannian really did call out ‘Dad’ loudly. If you’re not happy about it, why are you sneaking around like a thief, hiding from us, afraid that anyone here might find out Cheng Haijun has a son?”
The other person was too angry to respond, only muttering about how country folk have no manners, then went to make a phone call. Covering the receiver mysteriously, she spoke briefly and finally reminded them to absolutely not bring Miss Xie home today and to be careful, and so on.
Cheng Jinnian’s lips were pressed tightly into a thin line, his little face cold.
Song Hao had already guessed it—that ‘Miss Xie’ was about to become Niannian’s stepmother. Niannian was so smart; he must have figured it out too.
When they arrived, although Niannian was a bit angry with Uncle Haijun, he still held onto a sliver of hope—what if Uncle Haijun had some unavoidable reason? But now, seeing this—
He really had no conscience!
The two waited for a while. Sounds came from outside the courtyard, and a tenant on the second floor greeted them in surprise, “Haijun, why are you back so early today?”
Then she added, “Oh, I remember now. Your older sister just mentioned that a relative’s child came to the house. Which relative is it? So young and already coming to Zhushi to work?”
Cheng Haijun’s voice replied, “Yes, I came back to check on them. If possible, I’ll help them settle in.”
Inside the house, Cheng Haijie grew anxious, stood up, paced to the door, and called out to the upstairs, “They’re still young. They’re just country kids who’ve never seen the world, here to play for a few days before going back.” Then she gently patted her brother’s arm and chided, “What ability do you have to settle them in? Don’t talk nonsense. You haven’t even stabilized your own job yet.”
“Big sister,” Cheng Haijun’s tone was awkward and embarrassed.
Cheng Haijie stood under the eaves by the door and whispered, “You can’t be foolish. Although Miss Xie knows about your situation, if a grown son suddenly appears right under her nose, she definitely won’t be happy. The wedding is coming up soon; we can’t cause any trouble.”
“Minmin isn’t that petty,” Cheng Haijun said first, then added, “Let’s go inside and talk, big sister.”
The hesitant, muffled words under the eaves drifted vaguely into Cheng Jinnian’s ears. His mind went blank, and he clenched his fists tightly, so hard they trembled. He wanted to punch the man he called ‘Dad’ right in the face and demand to know why he hadn’t responded to the letters and calls when his mother was seriously ill. Why?
Cheng Jinnian gritted his teeth in hatred.
Hearing the sound of Niannian grinding his teeth, Song Hao grabbed Niannian’s fist and stood up, his voice firm and resolute, “We don’t need him anymore.”
Cheng Haijun happened to walk in just as he heard these words. Song Hao’s gaze, filled with anger and condemnation, met Cheng Haijun’s eyes. Cheng Haijun, as if his spine had been exposed by a junior, couldn’t bear it and looked away, his gaze falling on his son beside him.
“Song Laosan, you’re here too,” Cheng Haijun said, still feeling awkward but trying to maintain his authority as an adult, greeting him in a teasing, joking manner.
Song Hao said, “Aunt Hongxia is gone. If I didn’t come, would I just let you bully people?”
“How dare you speak like that, with no manners at all? How did your family raise you?” Cheng Haijie couldn’t stand it. “Adults are talking. What right do you, an outsider and a junior, have to interrupt?”
Cheng Jinnian’s face was tense as he said, “Song Hao is not an outsider.”
“That’s right, we’re family!”
Cheng Haijie was about to say more but was stopped by Cheng Haijun beside her. “Sister, let me talk to the children.”
“You two must be exhausted from the trip. Let’s eat first—”
Cheng Jinnian stared straight ahead, his gaze piercing. “I don’t want your hypocritical sympathy. Do you have someone else? That woman surnamed Xie? Did you know my mother was seriously ill but still worked, hiding it from me because she was afraid I’d find out? She dragged it out until there was no saving her. Did you know?”
As he spoke, Cheng Jinnian sniffled, unable to hold back his choked sobs, his eyes reddening.
He thought of his mother.
During those two years, his mother missed his father terribly. Whenever he asked when his father would return, his mother would always say his father was busy with work, and once he finished, he would surely come back to bring them both home.
Later, he stopped asking.
Upon hearing this, Cheng Haijun’s eyes also reddened. He sighed and said, “Niannian, I’m sorry for your mother and for you, but it’s a long story. I never neglected my work here, and after finally settling down, it was all thanks to Minmin’s family for their help.”
At first, Cheng Haijun still thought of his wife and son in the countryside. Although his elder sister had always intended to arrange a marriage between him and Xie Min, Cheng Haijun had no such thoughts back then. After his work stabilized, out of gratitude for the Xie family’s help, he and Xie Min gradually interacted more frequently. It was only then that he realized he had fallen in love with this woman.
Now, facing his son’s silent accusation with reddened eyes, Cheng Haijun was also in agony. He confessed honestly, “Minmin was hurt by marriage before. She also has a daughter and didn’t dare rush into another marriage. It’s not her fault. She’s well-educated, knows how to play the piano and dance, and is understanding. I know your mother was good, but… I can’t live with her anymore. It’s my fault, and I’m sorry to her and to you.”
Cheng Haijun said all this to explain that he wasn’t with Xie Min for fame or fortune, but out of genuine love and emotion. Xie Min shared common interests with him; they belonged to the same world.
Cheng Jinnian felt nauseous but suppressed the disgust.
Cheng Haijun had originally wanted his son to stay, but his elder sister was right—Jinnian harbored too much hatred toward Minmin, which wasn’t good. Overwhelmed with guilt and unease, he said, “I’ll give you some money. You and Song Hao should go back.”
Song Hao was so furious he wanted to hit Cheng Haijun. Who did he think he was, insulting them with money? Was Aunt Hongxia’s death just going to be brushed aside like that? Fuming with anger, he glanced at Niannian before acting on impulse. Since Niannian said nothing, Song Hao held back.
Cheng Haijun went inside, rummaging through drawers and cabinets to get the money.
Cheng Haijie knew that offering money to send them away was the right move, but she couldn’t help muttering, “Our family opposed your mother’s marriage to Haijun from the start. That marriage was invalid. Our Cheng family doesn’t recognize it.”
“Haijun is educated. He’s simply not a match for a village woman. Who knows what tricks your mother used—”
Cheng Jinnian lunged forward, clawing at Cheng Haijie’s face.
Hearing his elder sister’s cries of pain from outside, Cheng Haijun hurried out and tried to pull them apart. But Song Hao, with his great strength, shielded Cheng Jinnian and struck his elder sister, blocking Cheng Haijun so he couldn’t separate them.
“Don’t you dare talk about my mother!”
“Who told you to talk about my mother?”
“What’s so great about you?”
“What’s so great!”
Cheng Haijie’s hair was disheveled, and there were marks on her face. She said bitterly, “Haijun, look at this yourself. This is what comes from being raised in the countryside—utterly uncivilized.”
“Sis, say less. After all, I’m the one who wronged them first—” Seeing his elder sister’s disheveled and injured state, Cheng Haijun frowned deeply and scolded Cheng Jinnian, “No matter what, she’s still your aunt.”
Cheng Jinnian stiffened his neck, only letting out a cold laugh.
Cheng Haijun had no choice. With a headache, he handed over the money he had found.
It was a stack of money, scattered and messy, impossible to tell how much exactly. Cheng Haijun felt guilty, ashamed of his son, and had taken out all his savings. But now, facing Cheng Jin Nian’s tantrum over his older sister, that guilt diminished somewhat, replaced by anger. Yet the money was already out.
Cheng Haijie thought it was too much and said, “This is your salary saved up over several months.”
Cheng Haijun regained a bit of reason, looking down at the money, thinking of giving Cheng Jin Nian only half. Just as he tightened his grip on the cash, he looked up to see Cheng Jin Nian clutching a handful of it. Cheng Haijun thought for a moment—after all, he was the father—and let go.
“Take it and go back with Song Hao,” Cheng Haijun said magnanimously.
Cheng Jin Nian held the money tightly.
“Cheng Haijun, if you were with another woman for fame and fortune, you’d be a true scoundrel.”
“But now you’re a hypocrite, and I look down on you.”
“You’re no longer my father.”
Cheng Haijie, standing nearby, was furious. This little brat. “If you’re so proud, why take the money? You talk tough, but if you have the guts, give it back. This is our Cheng family’s money.”
“Da Song, let’s go.” Cheng Jin Nian took Da Song’s hand and walked out.
Behind them, Cheng Haijie’s cursing continued: “Haijun, look at what that little brat said. He doesn’t even acknowledge you anymore, and you still gave him money. I think he’s just here to swindle you, just like his mother back then—”
“Older sister, you can speak louder. Let everyone outside hear,” Cheng Haijun snapped.
Once outside the courtyard, Cheng Jin Nian let go of Da Song’s hand, wiping away tears he couldn’t hold back, each drop falling one by one. He sniffled, then disdainfully shoved the money into Da Song’s hands. Song Hao took the money without counting it, stuffing it into his inner pocket first, his eyes filled with worry as he looked at Niannian.
“Do you think I’m not—”
“That woman is talking nonsense, spouting crap. That Cheng guy owes Aunt Hongxia, he owes you. Even giving his life wouldn’t be enough. This money—you should take it, you absolutely should. Why not? You took the money, and that woman was clearly upset just now. She was trying to provoke you. If you gave it back, you’d fall right into her trap. Why make her happy? Our Niannian isn’t a fool.” Song Hao hurriedly interrupted, knowing what Niannian wanted to say. His heart ached like a knife twisting inside him, cursing the Cheng siblings to death. How shameless, bullying someone like this.
Cheng Jin Nian couldn’t hold back anymore and buried himself in Da Song’s arms, sobbing loudly.
He cried for his mother, cried for why it wasn’t Cheng Haijun who died.
On a late February evening in 1988, the sky was dark, and the night in Zhushi was still chilly, damp and cold. Fourteen-year-old Cheng Jin Nian had become an orphan, and sixteen-year-old Song Hao became his support.
They counted the money, adding up every cent and coin—a total of nine hundred and seventy-eight yuan.
That year, the average worker in Zhushi earned around one hundred forty to one hundred fifty yuan a month. The two spent five yuan to stay at a guest house for the night. Song Hao counted the money, smoothing it out neatly, saving it all for Niannian’s future university expenses.
“That foreign old man’s hamburger is really expensive, and so many people are buying it,” Song Hao said, wringing out a hot towel for Niannian.
How come people here are so rich?
Cheng Jin Nian’s eyes were swollen. He took the towel and pressed it against his face, saying, “Let’s go eat one tomorrow.”
“I didn’t say that because I wanted to eat it. If you want one, I’ll buy it for you with our own money, not his. The bus ticket was one yuan fifty, the guest house five yuan. I still have thirty-one yuan fifty left. Subtract that hamburger thing, eighteen yuan, and there’s—”
“Thirteen yuan fifty,” Cheng Jin Nian answered instantly.
Song Hao praised, “My Niannian is so smart, how did you know I was counting on my fingers? We’ll stay one night and leave tomorrow. We’ll buy a bag of steamed buns for a dollar to eat on the train. Do you want to drink that cola? I saw kids drinking it today and they said it’s really tasty. I’ll buy it for you, and we can also get some oranges. If you feel unwell on the train, eat an orange.”
Under the warm towel, Cheng Jin Nian’s eyes softened again, wanting to cry, but this time his heart felt warm. When he came, an aunt on the train gave him an orange to eat. After eating it, he said he wasn’t uncomfortable—it was just polite words to thank the kind aunt. Da Song took it to heart, thinking he really wasn’t uncomfortable anymore.
“Da Song, I don’t want hamburgers or cola,” Cheng Jin Nian said, sitting up on the bed and removing the warm towel.
Song Hao thought Niannian was worried about spending money and said, “If we spend it all, I’ll earn more. I’ll give all the money I earn in the future for you to spend.”
“…” Cheng Jin Nian’s heart raced chaotically, filled with emotions he had never experienced before—sweet and tender, yet tinged with sourness and a bit of fear. Just looking at Da Song made his heart flutter wildly, and his face flushed red. He changed the subject: “If you don’t eat hamburgers, why did you mention it earlier?”
Da Song definitely wasn’t complaining about him spending money on hamburgers.
Da Song had never grumbled about him spending money.
Seeing Niannian staring at him, Song Hao’s face also grew warm. Niannian was truly beautiful. After a moment’s daze, he realized, “What did I mean by that earlier? Let me think… I said the people here are really rich. Hamburgers are so expensive, yet so many people buy them. How are they so wealthy?”
“Our Baoping City can’t compare to Zhushi, but rich people exist everywhere,” Cheng Jin Nian admitted, though he had no fondness for Zhushi. He had to acknowledge that Zhushi was wealthier and more prosperous than their small city.
Song Hao agreed, “You’re right.” After thinking carefully, he added, “Although there aren’t as many tall buildings in Baoping City as here, there are still people driving cars in the city. Even the contractor I work for on construction sites has a pager.”
“How do people here make money?”
He began to ponder. Song Hao, at fourteen or fifteen, looked like a half-grown boy but would wander out during the farming off-season to find work. Though young, he was tall and strong like an adult, with plenty of strength. He worked as a laborer, not on major construction sites but helping rural families build courtyards—carrying bricks, mixing cement, and hauling cement.
He earned five yuan a day, with meals provided.
In the past, he saved the money he earned through hard work, frugally setting it aside to buy snacks for Niannian, which was enough. But today, after arriving at the Cheng family, Song Hao thought he needed to earn big money. With big money, he could buy hamburgers and cola for Niannian every day, without having to budget—Niannian could eat as many as he wanted. With big money, he could even throw the money back at the Cheng siblings—
That would really be letting them off easy.
He’d rather burn the money than give it to the Cheng family.
In any case, he had to earn a lot of money so Niannian could live well, dress well, and be like a city kid.
He couldn’t let Niannian suffer with him.
[Author’s Note]
The setting is fictional with references. The first KFC in Beijing opened in 1987, and the second in Shanghai in 1989.
Da Song: I want to earn lots and lots of money so Niannian can eat hamburgers every day!